Press the tofu between paper towels with a weight on top for 15 minutes, then crumble it. Salt the chopped cabbage, let it sit 10 minutes, then squeeze out as much water as you can with your hands. This step decides whether your filling stays put or turns your wrappers to mush.

Combine the pork, tofu, cabbage, bean sprouts, glass noodles, scallions, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Mix by hand until evenly combined and slightly sticky.

Lay a wrapper flat and spoon about 1 tablespoon of filling into the center. Resist the urge to add more — overfilling is the single most common reason mandu split open.

Wet the edge of the wrapper halfway around with a fingertip dipped in water.

Fold the wrapper in half over the filling to form a half-moon, pressing the center point firmly to seal first.

Working from the center outward, pinch small pleats along one side of the seam only, pressing each pleat against the flat opposite edge as you go. Three to five pleats per side is normal; the goal is a sealed edge with no flat gaps, not a perfectly even fan.

Set each finished dumpling down on a floured tray, not touching the others, and keep the rest covered with a damp towel while you work.

To steam: place in a lined steamer basket with space between pieces, steam 10 to 12 minutes over boiling water. To pan-fry: heat oil in a skillet, fry the bottoms 2 minutes until golden, add 3 tbsp water, cover immediately and steam 4 to 5 minutes. To boil: drop into gently simmering water or broth and cook 6 to 8 minutes, until they float and the wrapper looks translucent.